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4.2 Photographing in Manual Mode

A typical time-lapse scenario is you're probably going to want to shoot in manual mode. Shooting in manual mode means understand the most basic settings of your camera. This may be a learning curve for some of you, but by doing so you'll gain greater control over your time-lapse sequences. When shooting a time-lapse using manual we have less chance of inconsistencies caused by automatic functions. Typical automatic problems such as flicker, changes in shutter speed, or skipped frames can be almost entirely avoided. The downside, though, to shooting manual, other than the learning curve, is when the light in the scene drastically changes. When this happens, we're in danger of over- or under-exposing our images. Manual time-lapses work best with sequences that are short with short interval times and short durations. In a short duration, the light should remain fairly consistent. I've set up the camera now for a manual cloudscape sequence. The camera's currently in manual mode, and I've made sure to disable autofocus, so it's in manual focus. With the ISO, I've made sure that it's relatively low, so at the moment it's set to 160. With my white balance, I've set it to a similar temperature to the sky right now. So, the white balance temperature is set to clouds. With the shutter speed, I want a smooth motion, so I have a low shutter speed to eliminate choppy movement. Currently, it's set to 20. I've put my neutral density filter, the ND8 filter, to allow for a longer exposure time without over-exposing the images. With my intervalometer, to ensure smooth motion, I'm making sure my intervals are around three seconds. This should make sure that the clouds aren't moving too fast. It's easy to speed them up in editing if I do discover that they're too slow. I'm aiming for about eight seconds of footage, so my video playback is about 24 frames per second. So, I'm gonna shoot 200 frames to get my eight seconds. This means I'm gonna be waiting around for about ten minutes, giving me enough time to try some other locations. I've also set a delay on the timer for about ten seconds to allow me time to move out of the shot and not shake the tripod before the time-lapse starts. Before I start the intervalometer, I should switch off live view, but it's just done that itself, so that saves me some trouble. And that's gonna further preserve the battery. So, that's about it. Setting up a manual shot duration isn't so complicated. Next we're gonna try a much more complicated scenario, and we're gonna try to capture the setting sun. So, I'm gonna start my time-lapse, and let's have a look at this later on. Ten seconds to get out of shot.

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